Arctic Expedition: Greenland Day 6 - A Kingdom of Ice and Drama

Arctic Expedition

A Kingdom of Ice and Drama – The Bjornoer Islands

Photo Album: Bjornoer Islands and Calving Drama

Video: Greenland 6 Bjorneoer & Sydkap

We anchored in the early morning, shrouded in a mist that gave everything a hushed, mysterious feel. Visibility was low, spirits were high, and somewhere beyond the fog lay the jagged silhouettes of the Bjornoer Islands—our icy cathedral for the day.

They revealed themselves slowly, like dramatic stage curtains parting to a fantastical set: tall, sharp, theatrical peaks rising straight out of the sea like the frozen teeth of some ancient leviathan. That was my first glimpse of the Bjornoer archipelago—and it did not disappoint.

The kayakers were slated for an ambitious 06:30 start, but nature had other plans. The mist said, “Nope,” and kept them on standby until it graciously lifted around 07:30—just in time for us to have breakfast and pretend we’d always planned it that way.

We took to the zodiacs and set off on a spectacular three-hour cruise weaving between the spiny islands and their icy companions—icebergs of every size and personality. The sea was calm, glass-like, giving us postcard-perfect reflections in a hidden lagoon tucked between towering cliffs. If you ever wanted to know what it’s like to float through a fantasy painting, this was it.

Then came the icebergs.

About 200 meters out, we sidled up to one particularly handsome berg—tall, dramatic, a real diva of the ice world. We paused to admire it, cameras clicking away. Then, the silence cracked: a distant rumble. A calving. I turned in time to catch a small chunk tumbling from the far side—and maybe something larger slipping from its backside.

The iceberg began to lean, slowly at first, then more deliberately. You know that moment in a horror movie when you know the monster’s about to move? That was this. Instinct screamed “Something’s coming!”—and then, crack! A huge slab flaked off with theatrical flair and slammed into the sea. The wave that followed was impressive. And yes, the camera was rolling. Nature served us a front-row seat to one of her great spectacles.

Ice Calving video here ( full screen )....or this small one ( at time 2:44 for the calving ).

Of course, just after we turned the video off, another massive chunk fell. Classic. Timing: 0. Mother Nature: 1.

Eventually, we rendezvoused with the ship about 10 km away and called them over to scoop us up—kayakers included—just in time for lunch. A very civilized wrap-up to a morning that flirted with chaos.

The afternoon took us back through the iceberg maze toward Sydkap, where we landed and went for a walk. Honestly? Bit of a letdown. The terrain was rocky, steep, and thoroughly unimpressed by our curiosity. No wildlife, no historical relics, just... rocks. Maybe we’ve just been too spoiled by the glacier theatrics and iceberg opera earlier. Tough crowd, us.

That night, we sailed through the grand hallway of Hall Bredning in Scoresby Sound, slipping past Ittoqqortoormiit—our familiar little settlement from earlier—under clear, sunny skies. The sea sparkled, and the icebergs, ever the show-offs, glowed with evening light. It felt like we were gliding through a frozen dreamscape.

And yet, the most elusive actor of all still hasn’t made an appearance. Yes, despite our best efforts, the Greenland bear count remains a big, defiant ZERO. Tomorrow’s our last shot before we head to Iceland.

Dear polar bears: if you could make a dramatic, last-minute entrance, now would be a great time. We’re ready. We’ve got cameras. And snacks. Just saying.

And our footprints....after 6 days in Greenland.